In my ten-plus years of reviewing Oklahoma City restaurants, I rarely get a chance to stop by a James Beard-anointed eatery. My beat is usually taco trucks, greasy spoons, and other deliciously off-the-beaten-path dives that only win awards if they stuff a Gazette "Best Of" ballot.
But, for my lovely fiancée’s birthday, I wanted to take her to a very impressive restaurant – Black Walnut, 100 NE 4th St., in Deep Deuce.
Led by 2023 James Beard recipient Chef Andrew Black, it's not only one of the most stellar restaurants in Oklahoma, but in all of the United States!
After a weeklong wait—seven agonizing days!—since I surprised her with the reservation, the evening finally arrived. Dressed in something new and looking absolutely stunning, she walked beside me as we arrived right on time—seven o’clock, on the dot.
Taken to our table, our waitress took our drink orders: for her, the House ($11.00), a black walnut infused bourbon with black walnut bitters and, for me, the non-alcoholic Black Walnut Punch ($5.00), a blend of different juices with mint and honey.
With the drinks going down very smooth and very fruity, we started with the Sweet and Savory portion of the menu.
Our waitperson suggested the Baked Chevre ($13.00), which, of course, is goat cheese that is combined with confit peppers, garlic, olive, and candied bacon on charred rosemary bread.
It was like consuming pure gold—the goat cheese’s rich aroma mingled perfectly with the bold peppers and garlic, creating an exhilarating flavor that lingered long after each bite. Even though this was just the starter, I could have devoured the whole dish myself!
Next, from the Fresh and Light section of the menu, we ordered one of my fiancée’s favorites: the home-grown Fried Green Tomato ($13.00). Crisp, golden slices of fried green tomato were topped with decadent burrata, creamy avocado, and sweet candied bacon—a perfect balance of textures and flavors.
Elevating the classic fried green tomato—one of her most cherished food memories—by delicately layering it with burrata and avocado was nothing short of a revelation. It was a masterful reimagining of comfort food, executed with precision and thoughtfulness. A total success!
From the Smokey and Satisfying section, I wanted to try something new. Without hesitation, I went for the Branzino ($29.00)—a mild, flaky white fish, expertly smoked and served atop a bowl of broad beans, roasted tomatoes, leeks, and a bright splash of lime.
Branzino is often an overlooked fish in the culinary world, but consider my perspective officially shattered—this was the best fish I have ever eaten. Lightly seared, it melded beautifully with the beans, tomatoes, and leeks, creating a refined, gumbo-like stew that I unconsciously slurped down, savoring every bite.
For her birthday entrée, my fiancée went with the exquisite English Beef Ribs ($37.00) from the Casual and Comforting section of the menu. Slow-cooked to perfection, the ribs were accompanied by a rich mushroom sauce, crisp hushpuppies, and a fresh corn and kale slaw. To complete the experience, she paired it with a glass of Nero Sangiovese red wine ($13.00), a bold and elegant choice.
This was no ordinary rack of ribs—the delicately carved meat went beyond fall-off-the-bone tenderness. As she carefully dissected each expertly charred piece, she marveled at its beauty. Paired with the unexpectedly sweet, honey-drenched hushpuppies and the crisp, vibrant corn and kale slaw, the dish was a masterful balance of complexity and comfort.
Stuffed as we were, there was no way we could bypass the grand finale—dessert.
With two glasses of complimentary sparkling wine—courtesy of our attentive waitperson—we toasted to the occasion and indulged in the signature Black Walnut Cake ($16.00). A cinnamon-spiced pound cake base, rich local vanilla ice cream, and a delicate ribbon of artisan caramel draped across the top made for an unforgettable dessert. In her words, it was the best she had ever had.
But, to be fair, she’s the best woman I have ever had. The meal should have a deep reflection on it and the love I have for her.
Days later, she’s still talking about Black Walnut, and that’s the mark of more than just a great meal. It’s the result of well-worn expertise, homegrown passion, and an unwavering commitment to Oklahoma’s real flavors—an experience so memorable, so delicious, that neither of us is likely to forget it.
Cómpralo ya!
-
Follow Louis Fowler on Instagram at @louisfowler78.
