In her life, my mother has held a variety of occupations, from registered nurse to police officer to manager at Braum’s, but most recently she worked as a racehorse trainer.
During those days, she'd frequent a Mexican restaurant near the racetrack, a place that, though long gone, still lives on in my memory. La Herradura Mexican Restaurant, 12100 N. Rockwell Ave., reminded me of that spot in the best way.
On a reader recommendation, my girlfriend and I recently trekked out to the Metro's far northwest side to visit the place. As soon as we walked in, the horseshoe regalia on the wall and screens playing the races overhead gave the place a real jockeying vibe.
The waitperson greeted us as we sat down and presented us with white queso, hot salsa, and the crunchiest chips this side of Brownsville. I don’t know how they do it here, but these chips were very fresh and quite filling—I had to turn them away so I wouldn’t ruin my dinner!
I had a tall glass of life-giving horchata ($3.50) and our mouth-watering appetizer, some spooky Shrimp Mummies ($12.99) came to life on our plate.
Ostensibly, it’s shrimp stuffed with cheese, then wrapped in ham and bacon and served with a side of homemade chipotle sauce. Of course, it is delectable. I loved how the well-worn saltiness of the ham and the crispy edges of the bacon paired harmoniously with the mild shrimp. It’s a winning combo for an appetizer, but we were looking for the triple crown and got it.
At most Mexican restaurants, I am looking for something less Tex-Mex and more magical, and La Herradura did that with their Trompitos ($13.99). It's a dish of wonderful al pastor meat stacked kabob-style and served sizzling with cilantro, onions, beans, and rice.
I have always liked my meat on a stick, and here it is delivered in spades!
Like a carnivorous Seabiscuit, I inhaled the very tender meat, with its luscious pineapples and aromatic onions. Cloaked in cilantro, it has a meaty brawn that any jockey from Remington Park to the Preakness Stakes would love to take to the Winners’ Cup.
I couldn’t help finishing the meal, where I felt like a champion.
As I picked out the remaining meat with a toothpick, I decided I wanted dessert, and La Herradura had me covered with the coveted Arroz con Leche ($3.99). A dessert I love but rarely have, it truly was a surprise as the rice pudding turned out to be the crown of this whole dinner.
As we walked out, I couldn't help but smile, thinking of my mother's horseracing adventures. La Herradura might not be the exact restaurant she frequented, but it captured the same spirit. Whether you're a racehorse enthusiast or just in the mood for some exceptional Mexican food, this place has the heart of a champion.
Cómpralo ya!
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Follow Louis Fowler on Instagram at @louisfowler78.
