In a couple of days, I will finally return to Thirty Nine Restaurant, one of the very best—but, sadly, very underrated, at least by Oklahomans—Indigenous restaurants in the whole country. I can’t wait to try the vastly improved, renewed, and very different “Mach 2” version of this impressive eatery.
That being said…
In preparation for that triumphant meal, I decided I wanted to take my wife to one of the best— but, sadly, very underrated, at least by Oklahomans—Indigenous fast-food restaurants in the whole country.
Yes, I had to take her to FireLake Fry Bread Taco, 1568 Gordon Cooper Dr. in Shawnee.
Now, to be fair, this is my third time reviewing FireLake, mostly because people are always trying to find a place that continually serves fry bread other than community centers, church dining halls, and roadside stands. When it comes to fry bread tacos, people want them hot and people want them now!
At least I do….
Driving to Shawnee, we entered into the Citizen Potawatomi Nation, and we were hungry for an Indigenous taco.
On the way, I told my wife about the sad history of starvation as an oppressive tool, the creation of fry bread as a necessity, and its relation to the Trail of Tears in Oklahoma history, one that most white people don’t know about or, more to the point, something they don’t want to know about.
But, in the past few years, more and more Indigenous people have crowned fry bread as the crowning glory of truly cult eats, a cause that I personally ascribe to.
Coming in from the 103-degree July swelter, FireLake Fry Bread was cool and inviting. Walking to the counter, we gave our orders to the cheerful counterperson, giving a try to the full range of Indigenous flavors on the menu…and all the tastes that my wife needed to experience.
Our first order came right out, and it was the always hearty Mdamnabo (or corn soup) and fry bread ($3.99). A classic bowl of comfort food, chunks of beef and kernels of corn are stirred together in a savory broth with potatoes and other vegetables, and served with a piece of golden fry bread.
As a recipe for beating the heat, corn soup isn’t the one that most people would run to, until that taste hits the lips, and then all you can think about is how you lived without it. More viscous than other stews, we took turns draining the bowl.
As I was gently slurping the remnants, my wife had a decidedly hot taste with the Spicy Meat Pie ($3.99). A surprisingly large meat pie packed with meat, potatoes, green chilis, Monterey jack cheese, and jalapenos, and she had her work cut out for her.
But, as I soon learned, she was up for the task. As steam broke free of the encased pie, the true flavor of the beef and potatoes was kicked up a notch with the solidly spicy green chilis and jalapenos, adding a new level of wanton heat.
We loved our starters, but it was time for our main event, the Nishnabe Taco ($6.99), starting with the most forceful meats of all, the gentle beasts, the Bison. FireLake then lets you pick from all the accoutrements you could dream of, including our classic choices of pinto beans, lettuce, tomatoes, pepper jack cheese, sour cream, and jalapenos.
Forget Big Macs, KFC, and all the Subway sandwiches you could eat, because FireLake’s Fry Bread Tacos are the one true fast food. First of all, the fry bread is both golden and crispy, with a soft, pillowy middle.
But, on top of the fry bread, I have to say the Bison, this hulking, massive, beautiful creature, is the end-all be-all of meat. Tender, flavorful, and rustic as all get out, everything else is set dressing, but it’s good set dressing, especially the slow-simmered beans.
Whatever you choose, the Nishnabe Taco should be at the top of your list.
Even though we were pretty full by this point, I wanted her to at least try the Sweet Bread ($2.99), a dessert variation of fry bread, but instead of meat, beans, and other toppings, here we adorn the masterpiece with powdered sugar, cinnamon, and honey.
As I inhaled the sweet powder off the fry bread and orbited into a sweeter oblivion, I was so honored that my wife accompanied me on this journey to my culture’s somewhat traditional fast-food eats and treats.
Wiping the powdered sugar from my scraggly beard, I told her that FireLake Fry Bread Taco is only the beginning of our Indigenous cuisine journey, because next week at Thirty Nine Restaurant, she won’t know what hit her!
Cómpralo ya!
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Follow Louis Fowler on Instagram at @louisfowler78.
