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TLO Restaurant Review: The Black Raven

To green beer and plastic shamrocks, I say "Nevermore."

In search of a real St. Patrick’s experience—with extra clovers, a proper pint, and, why not, even a shillelagh thrown in for cultural accuracy—I made a breezy drive to the quiet community of Harrah for the traditional Irish cuisine of the Black Raven, 1878 N. Church Ave.

Though the name Black Raven sounds ominous, in reality it’s a warm, welcoming, homey place that brings alive the tone and feel of Irish pubs... or at least the ones I’ve seen on TV.

Entranced by the modest white house that is dwarfed by the feed stores and grain mills nearby, I walked into the strangely familiar restaurant last Saturday at noon. The radio played a soft, seemingly arcane Gaelic tune, as we drifted through the restaurant and into a couple of seats in the bar.

The place was pretty busy for so early in the day, the bar top filling with sober patrons and wandering irregulars, and me somewhere in between. As the waitperson—also the bartender, natch—asked what I wanted to drink, I instinctively ordered a Guinness, a first for me.

Though my alcoholic consumption is typically limited to a lone Lone Star Beer at any Mexican restaurant in the state of Texas, I must admit that I had always wanted to try a Guinness stout, with its heralded creamy texture and roasted flavor.

Within seconds, a draft pint with a full head was brought out to our table in the corner. As I took a hearty sip, my nose brushing the suds, I was completely taken in by the rich, dark taste, which I instantly admired.

What a great start to the meal, I thought, downing half the pint before I even thought about food.

When my wife and I eventually got to ordering, we wanted to try some real “authentic” Irish grub—once again, by way of Oklahoma—so I started out with an appetizer that I had heard about but had never tried, the time-worn Scotch Eggs ($9.99).

Coming to life at my table, the two hard-boiled eggs were wrapped in sausage and breadcrumbs, then fried to a golden-brown state. They were served with Dijon mustard, but it was unnecessary—these eggs were an unknown treasure just the way they were. With the crust on the egg doing most of the work, it was an exploding ovum of taste. Seriously…this might be my new favorite bar snack!

For her lunch, my wife kept it classic and ordered the traditional Fish and Chips ($13.99). Though mostly known as a British staple, they were made transcendent in this Irish pub, as a pair of cod fillets were dipped in a Harp beer batter, fried, and served with Irish chips and homemade tartar sauce.

I have tried to make my own fish and chips, sure, but after Black Raven’s version, I don’t see the point. The golden brown fish is undeniably crunchy and very flaky, with a little malted vinegar to bring it all together, just the way I like it.

Even more surprising, the chips (or fries, if you like) were otherworldly, with hand-cut potatoes that made me rethink the fry game altogether. Excellent all the way around.

And as good as that was, I had my own banshee to contend with, the formidable Corned Beef and Cabbage ($18.99). Though corned beef hash is its redneck cousin, this far more urbane corned beef roast is house-brined, Guinness-braised, and served with grilled cabbage and red potatoes.

I’ve hated cabbage for most of my life, but recently my wife has gotten me to love it. Here, that love is taken to a higher level, as the grilled, smoky cabbage pairs with the slow-roasted corned beef, its juices soaking in and giving new life to an old standby.

Along with the new potatoes, I could not believe how gorgeous this meal was. Mystical Fairy Queen, take me away!

I had planned to try the Guinness Chocolate Cake with chocolate ganache for dessert, but it was not available. Instead I was offered something better—Irish Bread Pudding with Irish whiskey caramel sauce ($6.99).

Forget everything you know about boring bread pudding. Black Raven's Irish version was something else, with the rich Irish bread and a wee tuck of grandpa’s whiskey really setting it apart. I wanted to take home another bowl—it was, without a doubt, magnificent.

Draining the remains of the Guinness down my gullet, I knew I'd be making a return trip to the Black Raven—St. Patrick’s Day or not. One of the best restaurants in Oklahoma, and probably Ireland too, is just a short drive from OKC. What luck!

Cómpralo ya!

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Follow Louis Fowler on Instagram at @louisfowler78.

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