Around the same time every year, a new restaurant—a new Mexican restaurant—gets added to my ever-growing repertoire, prompting me to scream “¡Aye, Dios mío!” to the sky and proclaim that this one—yes, this very one—is my new favorite eatery of all time.
Sorry, but it’s true…
The recently opened El Metate—I think the name translates to “canvas bag,” but I can’t be 100% sure—is one of those places where the subtitled descriptor Authentic Mexican Food isn’t just apt, it’s practically an understatement.
Taking classic taqueria standards from across the city—as great as they are—and turning them up to eleven, El Metate uses the freshest ingredients, traditional cooking methods, and a welcoming atmosphere to make familiar Tex-Mex dishes feel new again.
Seriously, the food here feels like blessed works of culinary art.
Located at 1309 NE 23rd, El Metate can be a little jarring at first—the outside doesn’t quite match the experience waiting inside.
Step through the door, and you’ll find yourself in a cozy taqueria in the heart of the city that could easily be mistaken for a hidden gem in Mexico City. Memorabilia of cultural patron saints like Frida Kahlo and Selena tastefully adorn the walls, while a small but mighty staff of two or three prepares meals in the back, and a lone waitperson attentively tends to the tables.
It feels like a true family.
Sure, the place seemed pretty dead when we first arrived, but the woman who owns it greeted us with such genuine enthusiasm that the whole space immediately felt alive.
The welcoming vibes had us buzzing. We checked out the menu on the video screen, placed our orders, and before long, the waitperson brought out some water and my favorite Mexican soda—a Tamarind Jarritos ($3.50).
The meal truly began when a basket of “You Had Me at Chips, Queso, and Salsa” ($5.99)—yes, that’s the actual name—arrived at the table. We were immediately blown away by the barely salted, perfectly crisp chips mingling with the tangy salsa and searing-hot queso.
According to our server, all three—the chips, queso, and salsa—are made in-house. That kind of attention to detail easily justifies the $5.99 price tag. Honestly, it’s worth even more.
From there, we ordered a few dishes off the small-but-mighty menu, starting with my fiancée’s pick: the Chicken Flautas ($12.99). Robust shredded chicken is deep-fried in a rolled tortilla, then served with Cotija cheese, sour cream, and fresh pico de gallo on the side, with rice and beans rounding out the plate.
Usually, most flautas are microwaved and, sadly, taste like it. But this made-to-order dish is truly delectable, as the deep-fried taquitos and pulled chicken are a match made in heaven, and the scattering of Cotija cheese and fresh pico de gallo are the perfect complement to the meal.
We split an order of the personified Burritos “El Adrian” ($11.99), a namesake dish that simply has to be tried. It’s a large burrito, filled with carne asada, dedicated refried beans, rice, and cheese, with lettuce, sliced tomato, sour cream, homemade queso, and a grilled jalapeno in the side.
Next, we split an order of the personified Burritos “El Adrian” ($11.99)—a namesake dish that simply has to be tried. It’s a hefty burrito stuffed with carne asada, rich refried beans, rice, and cheese, topped with lettuce, sliced tomato, sour cream, house-made queso, and a grilled jalapeño on the side.
This was the true treat. Unlike so many other tortas, everything about this one was perfect—full stop. The balance of refried beans and al pastor was spot-on. Where most tortas descend into a sloppy, irredeemable mess, this one held together in tasty synchronicity, earning it a solid gold medal in my book.
As I waited for my fresh sopapillas ($3.50) to cap off the meal, I broke protocol and did something I never do—I asked the owner about the food. She confirmed what I had already suspected: everything is made to order, with the artisan-style cooks putting their personal stamp of approval on every dish that leaves the kitchen.
No heat-lamp dissertations here!
And that must be true, because these sopapillas were more heavenly than I could have imagined. As I devoured them, I was already making plans to come back next week—this time with out-of-town guests in tow—so I can treat them to a real meal.
Because El Metate? It’s la mejor comida around.
Cómpralo ya!
-
Follow Louis Fowler on Instagram at @louisfowler78.
