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TLO Restaurant Review: VAST

For most of the year, I usually have a set budget when it comes to restaurant reviews and, typically, I have to stick with it. But, for one special day of the year, TLO head honcho Patrick suspends all that criteria and takes me and my guest to a most swanky holiday dinner where money is certainly no object, at least to me.

This year, Patrick took us to the very world-class restaurant VAST, perched at the top of the impressive Devon building downtown.

The tallest building in all of Oklahoma City—at least until the Tower of Excellence is completed—Devon Tower's elevator ride to the top floor was a literal ear-popping experience. As we ascended, the anticipation of our impending meal mingled with the unique charm of this mid-tier city, setting the stage for what promised to be an unforgettable dining experience.

Upon arriving and being shown to our seats, the attentive staff greeted us with complimentary Peach Yuzu tea. With this thoughtful gesture, the meal was already off to a wonderful start.

After exchanging pleasantries with Patrick and his guest, our server kicked off the evening by taking our drink orders. While everyone else in our party opted for alcoholic cocktails featuring robust spirits like whiskey and vodka, I had to abstain due to health concerns. A little disappointing, sure—but as it turned out, there was a silver lining.

To my delight, the drink menu included a non-alcoholic mocktail section that offered some exciting options. I chose the Pomme Grenade ($14.00), a vibrant, sweet-yet-spicy cocktail crafted with pineapple juice, orange juice, lime, and jalapeños. It was an absolute explosion of flavor that set the tone for the evening.

An amalgam of diverse tastes, it was a true treat that made me feel like I was part of the gang. Finally!

Without much deliberation, I knew our starter had to be the Whipped Bone Marrow ($18.00). A completely new taste experience for me, it was served alongside perfectly grilled sourdough bread.

With a rich, creamy texture reminiscent of bone-infused whipped cream, this dish was a modern culinary treat that defies description and simply must be experienced. However, in an attempt to describe its unique consistency, I commented that it had the properties of “flavorful caulk.” Unfortunately, my friends misheard me, thinking I’d said “flavorful cock.” Cue a round of uproarious laughter at my expense.

After recovering from my unintended faux pas, it was time to move on to the main course.

Patrick opted for the Surf and Turf ($78) —a tender filet paired with giant shrimp and a lone seared scallop—while his guest went with the classic filet ($58).

As with all the steaks and seafood at VAST, the dishes looked absolutely stunning.

According to Patrick, the filet on his dish was exceptional, boasting a perfectly seared crust that locked in its medium-rare juices, while the scallop melted in his mouth like butter—a true testament to the kitchen’s artistry. Meanwhile, the single prime filet was smothered in a buttery style sauce that added a complex richness to dish.

As for my girlfriend and me, we decided to step outside our usual dining preferences, venturing into more adventurous culinary territory.

Of course, VAST’s menu was more than up to the challenge.

My girlfriend opted for a waterfowl dish: the stunning Pan-Seared Duck Breast ($38.00). The beautifully plated entrée featured tender slices of duck, paired with a rich duck confit croquette, silky potato purée, braised red cabbage, and crispy Brussels sprouts, all brought together by a luscious balsamic rouennaise sauce.

Her face—and her taste buds—underwent a true reckoning as she savored the tender duck and perfectly crispy Brussels sprouts, both top-tier components of a well-balanced meal. Surprisingly, it was the potato purée and braised red cabbage that stole the show, adding a delightful acidic tang to tie the flavors together.

And the duck confit croquette? That was the gift she never knew she needed!

As for me, I couldn’t resist ordering the Pan-Seared Rack of Lamb ($48.00). This impressive dish featured three beautifully pan-seared lamb shanks, served alongside seasonal broccolini spears and a unique VAST-style potato encased in an edible wonton wrapper, all complemented by a rich sherry-sundried tomato reduction.

I had lamb only once, when I was in Colorado. My neighbor was cleaning out his freezer, and he gave me some frozen goods. The most intriguing was the lamb shanks, given to him by the government in his commodities. To be fair, at the time, it was not all that great…

But, looking at and tasting the VAST superiority of the local lamb, this recipe was truly amazing. Unlike any meat I have ever had and ever will have, it was so tender and moist, with a little bit of juice coming of every bite. With the newest wave of a mashed potato, it was probably the best one-two combo of a meal I have ever had.

This might be one of the top three meals I have ever had—but then came the desserts.

As if by magic – or, more than likely, word got out that we were with TLO – an entire tray of complimentary desserts appeared at our table, showcasing delights like Vanilla Bean Crème Brûlée, Strawberry Shortcake, Chocolate Macadamia Nut Pavé, and Peanut Dacquoise.

Each was special in its own way, but it was the Rum Banana Cheesecake ($10.00) that truly stole the show.

This decadent dessert featured a rich cheesecake topped with brûléed bananas and drizzled with a luxurious rum caramel sauce. It was, quite simply, perfect. In fact, the whole meal was perfect—absolutely perfect.

As I tossed my soiled napkin onto the thoroughly decimated table, I couldn’t help but declare this another grand slam from Patrick for the year-end dinner. The meal at VAST wasn’t just incredible—it was godlike. It has set a new standard in my quest to uncover Oklahoma City’s finest cuisine.

This might just be the apex of fine dining, not only in Oklahoma City but in the entire state. Seriously.

Happy holidays, and of course—cómpralo ya!

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Follow Louis Fowler on Instagram at @louisfowler78.

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