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TLO Restaurant Review: Krell’s East Coast Deli

Back in the 1980s, my father was a police officer in and around Houston, Texas. Around that time, synagogues were being vandalized by skinheads and other racists in the area. In response, off-duty police officers voluntarily mobilized to combat the racists and, of course, my dad was one of the good guys.

Throughout this period, many people from the Jewish community made baked goods and other foodstuffs for him, which then found their way to me. To this day, it has not only made me appreciate the good people in general, but their food in particular. Mazel Tov!

Sadly, that was one of my last exposures to that style of cuisine, as Oklahoma City is virtually a kosher-style food dessert, with barely any Jewish bakeries, delis, or restaurants serving authentic dishes.

Well, that is until Krell’s East Coast Deli – 2121 S. Yukon Parkway – opened in Yukon.

Taking a smallish road trip for lunch last week, Krell’s was still surprisingly busy. After looking over the entire menu, I went to the counter and placed my order while the very kosher pickle barrel enticed me…

And thank goodness, before the meal we had a dill plate featuring fresh dill pickles, sliced pickles, and, unbelievably, a chow-chow mixture of tart and sweet pickles that made my mouth water. I was already filled to the frothy brim with the starter…but the meal hadn’t even begun yet!

With my Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray ($3.00)—a celery-based soda that I found completely refreshing—our other starter soon arrived: the Everything Pickle Fries ($8.00).

Forget about any other imitation fried pickles—Krell’s has them beat!

These very firm pickle spears were flagrantly coated with the Everything Bagel seasoning and created a specular sheen that didn’t even need the rich and tasty ranch.

As I was stabbing my throat with fried pickles, my girlfriend’s salad plate was layered with butter lettuce, tomatoes, shaved red onions, cucumbers, and capers, with the big-time catch of the day, lots and lots of Lox ($16.00). Topped with a vinaigrette dressing, it was simply fabulous.

The fresh vegetables, especially the cucumbers and capers, were delicious and eye-appealing, but the delicious lox—a fillet of brined salmon, if you aren’t aware—made for a low-calorie, high-taste meal that was a brilliant setup with a tasty payoff.

But, I finally came to the meal I was comically buzzing about, Krell’s Rueben ($13.00). The monolithic sandwich came fully-loaded with real corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing, sandwiched in between their aromatic marble rye bread.

I have said many times that my favorite sandwich is a Rueben and, oy gevalt, Krell’s take on the meaty two-hander is the best in the business! Utilizing the authentic corned beef and Swiss cheese, the piercing taste of sauerkraut and the Russian dressing makes this the one thing to order here!

After finishing the whole sandwich, we decided on one last treat. We wanted something new and different, so we had the cherry Hamantashen ($4.00), a triangular pastry that is often associated with the Purim holiday.

While I don’t know as much about the celebration as I should, if it's anything like the delectable dessert, sign me up for it!

Walking out on the brisk breeze, I felt more than full. Looking at their sign, I tipped my imaginary cap to Krell’s, and I wished they would move to the city so I can patronize them early and often.

Cómpralo ya!


Follow Louis on Instagram at @louisfowler78.

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