Many people don’t know this about me, but I have a deep fascination with the country of India and its people and culture.
I guess it started in the early 90s when I picked up some George Harrison-produced Ravi Shankar recordings at the Friends of the Library book sale. It really opened the world for me pop culturally. But of course, soon enough, it became all about the food.
And for the next 30 years, I made regular pilgrimages to Gopuram, Taj, and a few other well regarded Indian spots around town. But, this time, I sought a thoughtfully curated experience with someone who could take me to that next level of culinary consciousness.
I got lucky last week when a good friend of mine, Trina, who is of Indian descent, took my wife and me to experience her favorite—and (spoiler alert) one of the most deliriously delicious restaurants I’ve visited in a long time—Saffron Cuisine of India, 3627 N Portland Ave.
Trina and her father—who came to America from Kolkata (formerly known as Calcutta) in the early 70s—have come to love this street-style cuisine and dine at Saffron every time he’s in town for a visit. She recommended this place especially because they don’t adhere to a specific regional menu, but instead offer dishes from all over India.
So, we met up with her for lunch last week. As soon as she arrived, I told her that she had carte blanche to order everything she thought we should try and, thankfully, she chose a wide spectrum of dishes to sample—served communal style, the way they are supposed to be eaten.
As we sat in the spacious dining room and sipped Mango Lassis ($4.00)—a creamy yogurt-based drink made with mango, some milk, a little sugar, and a bit of cardamom—Trina told us about her recent trips to Kolkata, the differences of culture, and, more to the point, the similarities between Mexico and India.
This conversation really impressed on me that India is one of the two countries I want to see before I die.
But, of course, until that time, the steamy platters that began arriving at our table would have to suffice. I noticed the dishes were brought out on paper plates and plastic bowls but soon learned, this wasn’t about the presentation, it was all about the taste.
We started with the hefty appetizers of Vegetable Samosas ($7.00), a hearty, flaky pastry pouch filled with potatoes, peas and spices, deep-fried and served with mint chutney.
Historically speaking, I haven’t been a great fan of mint, but the mint chutney stood tall, packed with taste, and I slathered it over the samosa to great effect. The one thing that truly impressed me, though, was the size of the samosas—massive, exploding with pockets of tangy flavor that could not be held back.
As I ripped into a second samosa, our server brought out the first of two overflowing trays, and lunch was officially on…
Starting off, we had a plate of traditional Butter Naan ($9.00), leavened flat bread made with flour, oil, milk, sugar and salt, with butter on top.
Look, I love naan, almost preferring it to Mexican-made tortillas. Saffron’s massive naan was insane—both in size and taste—and I wanted more. I downed two of these behemoths immediately!
Next up, alongside several plates of savory spiced basmati rice, we had our curries, starting with the classic Chicken Tikka Masala ($13.00). Of all the offerings, this was the dish I was most familiar with, and Saffron really hit the mark here.
It had a rich, creamy, buttery sauce with plenty of spiced chunks of tandoori chicken and, having ordered it on the mild side, it was a breezy affair. Though heavy on the butter, it wasn’t heavy because of the butter, making it a very nice dish.
But then came my favorite discovery, the Dal Makhani ($13.00), or as Trina called it colloquially, Black Dal, a veg curry of Punjabi-style protein-rich lentil stew, garnished with cilantro, fresh ginger and cream.
As my naan bread dug deep into brew, the spicy flavor of the lentils really surprised, me and I took another bite, reveling in the rich, creamy, lentil experience I never knew I needed. I savored this moment.
We still weren’t done yet, and on the second tray we were presented the mammoth Chicken 65 Dosa ($12.00), a fermented spicy crepe made with a rice and lentil batter, filled with bits of chicken 65—spicy, deep-fried chicken chunks—rolled loosely, and served with assorted chutneys.
This dosa was a true revelation! The recipe hailed from Chennai in South India, but it had an oddly familiar feel—like a burrito from another mother. Add this to the top of your list!
Finally, we had one more curry to contend with, the Navrattan Korma ($13.00).
Taking one last bite, I was more than full.
It’s a North Indian delicacy made of “nine vegetables and fruits,” cooked in a butter sauce that, though I couldn’t identify all nine varieties, had a real splash of tang and a curry flavor I didn’t plan for—but was thankful for.
These were traditional tastes as well as modern variations that, for the most part, I had never experienced before—and that’s the point. Saffron Cuisine of India has earned its reputation as the place to go for actual flavor over the pomp, circumstance, and white-tablecloth theatrics you’ll find elsewhere.
I thanked Trina for the crash course in authentic Indian food and culture as I finished the last of my mango lassi, ready for nothing more than a soft bed—but knowing I’d probably tear into that leftover dosa the second I walked through the door.
Cómpralo ya!
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Follow Louis Fowler on Instagram at @louisfowler78.
