For my last revisited food review, I swung by Nic’s Grill near 10th and Penn to refamiliarize myself with what's become one of the more celebrated onion burger stands in OKC.
The onion burger was still a greasy masterpiece, just like I remembered, but as I sat there wiping mustard and sweat from my face, another burger joint kept forcing its way into my mind—the one I’ve long considered the best in Oklahoma: Geronimo’s Bakery and Burgers on 1817 N. Martin Luther King Ave.
Just like with Nic's, it had been a few years and near-death strokes since I had been to Geronimo's, but I could still picture the big hamburger patty, the melty cheese, the hand-cut onions, and the pièce de résistance, the lone slice of well-cooked ham that made Geronimo’s the best burger meal around…no fooling.
I was recounting these food lust memories to my wife, and to my umami surprise, she had never been to the restaurant or even heard of it!
With little hesitation, lunch plans were made. We hopped in the car, and headed to MLK for this restaurant revisited.
When we arrived at Geronmi's, I had to do a double-take. Not only had the whole frontage and exterior been remodeled, but there was now a to-go window for immediate orders. Additionally, they had added a deluxe covered patio on the side, and, for when the weather gets chilly, an open fireplace to roast some marshmallows burgers.
Nice!
The new building and its inviting landscape are actually pretty great, but in the end, it’s the food that has tempted my tastebuds for many, many years, and, finally, I had it in front of me.
Always being a burger-focused man, I never tried Geronimo's other famed foods (apart from the king-size donuts that, apparently, are no longer on the menu), but with an decent per deim and eargerness to please, I started by ordering items that customers have praised online, like the Footlong Chili Dog ($7.00).
Rolling out on a sheet of aluminum foil, the 12-incher hot dog was large and in charge. This all-beef wiener, grilled and covered in beefy chili with melted cheese drowning in sauce and onion, was a real game changer.
Without a doubt, a taste that Sonic could never truly replicate.
As I was chowing down on that, my wife started on the other entree – Catfish and Fries ($12.00). The heavily breaded, deep-fried, and seasoned pieces of around five or six catfish filets were in the box, with a side of crinkle-cut fries.
As she dunked a fillet in the smear of tartar sauce around her box, she was immediately attracted to the lightly breaded wonders. Sure, I wasn’t convinced they were homemade, but I could say they are truly some good eats, as we wiped our mouths with a smile.
Although the hot dogs and catfish were tasty, the entire time I picked at them I really just wanted to bite into a legendary Geronimo Burger ($7.25), aided by a cup of very sugary, very red Kool-Aid—the best Kool-Aid.
Wrapped in foil like a gift from the meat gods, the burger was sweating gloriously, dripping a sacred mix of beef juice and melted cheese. As I peeled the foil back, that unmistakable aroma – smoky, salty, burgery – hit my face like a warm hug.
I quickly clutched at the burger, and – as my jaw strained — I bit in, instantly remembering why I crowned it Oklahoma’s best all those years ago. The thick, seared patty. The slick of mayo melting into molten cheese. The griddled ham –yes, ham – bringing an extra punch of salt and soul. The toasted bun barely held it together, like it was trying to keep a juicy secret from the rest of the world.
Oh, how I missed this burger!
As good as the hot dog and the catfish were—and, to be fair, they are very good—at Geronimo’s, you absolutely need to get a Geronimo Burger, and do it lickety-split.
My wife and I fought over the last bite… and needless to say, I won.
Cómpralo ya… otra vez!
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Follow Louis Fowler on Instagram at @louisfowler78.
