In Judaism, the word “Adonai” is another name for God or Lord, so it's safe to say I had some almighty high expectations when I recently stopped by Tacos Adonai, 107 NE 23rd St., a new-to-me restaurant that took over for Ricky’s Café just down the street from the State Capitol.
Featuring the Star of David on their sign, the place did its part to deliver, providing taco salvation with fresh ingredients, attentive staff, and a winning atmosphere.
Praise be and pass the salsa!
To be fair, there is really not a lot to Adonai on the inside. Taking a more pious and monastic approach to decoration and ambiance, the only thing that added pizzazz and flair were the bottles of hot sauce that surrounded the simple tables.
But that's fine. Once we were inside, the doting waitstaff provided us with menus, while a basket of crispy chips, creamy queso, and chunky salsa promptly made the rounds.
For my official starter, I chose the always-welcomed Pupusa ($2.99). A flat masa cake filled with refried beans and chicharrons, served with shredded cabbage, onions, carrots, and salsa.
This treat was top of the mountain! Downing it in the pink relish, it provided a soaring taste that made me want to explore more of the menu.
For our lunch entrees, my girlfriend went the simple route and chose the assorted Tacos Plate ($14.99). Her trio of triple-wrapped Mexican tacos included asada (beef), pastor (pork), and pollo (chicken), served along with diced onions and cilantro, and a side of rice and refried beans. Hallelujah!
While the rice and beans were sufficient, these spicy tacos were a triple threat of delicia delights, as the three distinct flavors were expertly cooked and decently spiced. Of the three, the pastor stole the show, with its veritable chunks of pineapple blending into the pork, an astounding treat for an early lunch on a muggy afternoon.
I went a more porous route and chose a bowl of the weekend special, the Menudo ($14.99). It's a Friday/Saturday thing that Adonai does and, from all the bowls of menudo I’ve downed, it is one of the best.
For the uninformed heretics, menudo is a traditional Mexican soup – a beef broth with a red chili pepper base, topped with cilantro, onions, and lime, and served with a large grilled bolillo roll. Primarily, it is a supposed hangover cure, but for me, it’s a total cure-all.
With my large Horchata ($3.50)—always a beverage of God’s undying love—on standby, I skimmed my spoon in the fiery broth. The large pillowy bits of tripa and hominy made for a real angelic blend, and with the bolillo roll for added taste, I had a holy Trinity for all to admire.
Sipping the rest of my cooling horchata as my mouth reeled from the near-death experience of menudo-based flames, it was a sign from God that today, my belly is full and my heart full of grace. Peace be with you, Tacos Adonai.
Cómpralo ya!
