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TLO Restaurant Review: Los Comales

Last week, my sweetest companion and I were all set on a five-star Midtown/Downtown dining adventure.

Sadly, we were instead immersed in grating music, snooty waiters and, worst of all, a two-hour wait that was ultimately unsustainable. We eventually left, and I felt so defeated as I sat in the car, a lone stream of tears welled up.

As my soul had died of hunger pangs, my girlfriend said to me, “Buck up, little camper…there’s a whole city to explore! Let’s just go down the road and see what we’ll see…”

And like that, I felt more consumer pride than ever. Tearing through the streets of OKC, we eventually found ourselves in the Oklahoma Stockyards at Los Comales, 1504 S. Agnew Ave.

Down the road from Cattleman’s Steakhouse and McClintock’s Saloon – two restaurants that I have previously reviewed— it is a long-standing taqueria that, as I quickly learned, should be perched on the shoulders of the greats.

Compared to the steakhouses in the area, Los Comales is, well, kind of plain.

With small sections of their windows advertising their tacos and tortas, the inside was even more nondescript. But, as soon as the waitress took our order at the counter and I opened two bottles of Mexican Coke, I realized this was my own panacea.

With a little joking over our sodas, the cooks were tirelessly preparing our food. When it arrived at our table, it was the most glorious feast I hoped for...

For her dinner, my girlfriend had three tacos (each around $2.75), lovingly wrapped in butcher paper, with the steaming meat billowing out on the mismatched plate. Two of her tacos—carnitas and carne asado—were, of course, wonderful, but the barbacoa taco she ordered — thanks to my nudge — should have books written about it.

As she took a bite, a smile came over her face and the barbacoa worked its magic. Like the other tacos, the spices and seasonings were impeccable, but only barbacoa has a way—a style—to soothe the soul as the greasy-less meat and bits of cilantro dance together to create a perfect snack food.

For my dish, I went the "When in Rome" (or the Oklahoma Stockyards) route and chose the Torta de Milaneza con Papas ($11.99), or, basically, a chicken fried steak sandwich with French fries.

Although not as large as a typical Oklahoma chicken fried steak sandwich you'll find at a place like Del Rancho, this was still a monster sandwich.

As my mandibles force-fed me like a beast, the thick-cut tomatoes, crispy lettuce, and avocado slices freshly complemented the milaneza meat, with the two pieces of beef banding together in fried emulsion. I've had plenty of perfect sandwiches in my life, and this was the perfect sandwich. Is there anything Mexicans can’t do?

With one last squirt of green hot sauce on my fries—also perfectly seasoned and coated, natch—this a comida perfecta and, eyeing the bill, it was far less than the over-hyped, two-hour wait restaurant I originally tried to go to.

Cómpralo ya!


For me, Mexican food is my comfort food, and Los Comales was more than comfortable.

Follow Louis on Twitter at @LouisFowler and Instagram at @louisfowler78.

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