Skip to Content

TLO Restaurant Review: Republic Gastropub

10:06 AM EDT on July 25, 2023

Taking a break from my current taco truck and diner breakfast kick, I recently took things in a different direction and had a hip dinner with friends at Republic Gastropub, 5830 N. Classen Boulevard, in Classen Curve.

I was looking forward to the visit because, to my post-stroke knowledge, I have never been to a “gastropub” before, and the locally-famed Republic seemed like a good way to break me in.

As drizzling rain washed the pub's long windows, our party was seated in the back of the restaurant. I have to admit, the place was very upscale and modern and filled with plenty of pretty people, giving an anti-septic taint to the whole proceedings.

That being said – outside of the high menu prices – the place was far less “experimental” than I imagined. I expected beakers and tubes containing dry ice and bubbling experiments. Instead, I got a burger with an egg on top.

Don’t me wrong, it was a good egg…just not what I was expecting.

We started our Gastroproceedings by partaking in a flight of brews and a savory appetizer.

Called the Sweet n’ Sour ($10.00) selection, the beer sampler featured the following beers in small glasses: Austin East Pineapple, Prairie Strawberry Rhubarb, Vanessa House Candy King, and Schilling Fruit and Chill.

I had a momentary sip of each and I guess they were fine. To be fair, I rarely consume alcohol, and my palate is not mature enough to handle these things.

As my friends finished the brews, I focused on the appetizer – the Hot Onion and Bacon Dip ($10.00).

This was more my style.

With needlessly crispy tortilla chips around the black bowl, the dip was the savory snack I needed, with the onions doing their thing and the bacon being careless but freeing.

Eventually, our main courses arrived.

My girlfriend went with a Knife and Fork BLT ($14.00). With bacon and fried green tomatoes as a base, the open-faced toasted sourdough sandwich is topped with avocado relish, white cheddar, arugula, and herb vinaigrette. She paired it with the Crispy Brussels Sprouts and Turnips ($5.00).

The brussels sprouts and turnips were absolutely fine, but the actual BLT was pretty darn good. While the fried green tomatoes were merely passable, the bacon—just like with the dip—was full of affable power. With the sourdough rocking and soaking up this meaty sandwich, it made for a great time.

Meanwhile, my own sandwich, the Republic Burger ($14.00) was also up to the gastro task. It came filled with caramelized onion-smoked bacon relish, bleu cheese, gruyere, arugula, and a fried egg on top. I paired it with the Mac and Cheese with Bacon and Andouille ($5.00).

Honestly, the mac and cheese was bland, making me long for a box of Kraft. The burger, on the other hand, was pretty tasty. Thick and juicy, the blue cheese and gruyere really stood out, while the egg, pricked and progged into delicious oblivion, brought it all together.

Now, is it worth $14? That probably depends on who is paying the bill, but you can find lesser burgers at many other places around town.

I have to say, my trip to Republic was a bit different than I imagined. Although I was expecting more of a steampunk environment, it was still a good yet kind of pricey experience. I think I would go back for a second time, just as long as you're picking up the bill.

Cómpralo ya!


Follow Louis on Twitter at @LouisFowler and Instagram at @louisfowler78.

Already a user?Log in

Thanks for clicking!

Please provide your email address to read for free.

See all subscription options

Stay in touch

Sign up for our free newsletter