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I grew up three or so blocks from the fabled Chester’s Pool Hall, 2733 NW 50th. Even back then, they were secretly famous for their onion burgers, conceived at a time when secrets like that were kept rightly under wraps by neighborhoods that didn’t want to share them with anyone.
I, however, never went there as a kid, mostly due to the pool-hall police stories that my parents filled my developing head with to great effect. However, the one time that I did manage to sneak over there, as I sat in the back noshing on my quite tasty burger, I was made fun of by a couple of upperclassmen from high school, which carried over for much of my sentence at Northwest Classen.
But, you know what? I’m currently fucking 43 years old and if I want to eat a fucking burger at Chester’s, then by God I’m going to eat a fucking burger at Chester’s.
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At least that’s the mature rationale that I told my lifelong gal-pal Jodie about as I spilled my bloated guts to her about my tumultuous history—at least the one in my head—with the place. As I took a deep breath and prepared for the worst, we entered and were confronted with…old men, most of them sitting around and sipping coffee.
As I sidled up to the bar, only one girl was working the kitchen, trying her best to feed the engorged bellies of these senior citizens and now me. I looked over the menu that was hanging above us. I had what was to be expected for 25 years, the Onion Burger with Cheese ($8.00) while Jodie had the Chicken Fried Chicken ($6.00) sandwich.
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We sat in a secluded part of the bar, far from the ventilator-ready wonders that seemingly run the place. By now, any residual stress that I ever felt was long gone. As a matter of fact, there was a part of me that hoped a fight would break out so I could smash a pool cue across some dude’s walker. Wishful thinking, I suppose.
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After a second cup of coffee, I picked up our food and brought it to our table-ette. Jodie started in on her Chicken Fried Chicken with the greatest of pleasure. And, in all probability, even though much of the sandwich probably came from the back of a truck—the buns, patties, and vegetables—the sheer magic that the young girl made in the kitchen worked diabolical wonders with those eats.
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But it was my Onion Burger—that Goddamn Onion Burger!—that filled me with the hopes and dreams of a chubby teenager and his illicit eats. Stuffed with all the things you expect—lettuce, pickles, cheese, and so on—each bite was a superb choice of mature dining, right down to the onion chunks instead of the onion strings dancing throughout. Would it be anti-Oklahoman to say that that style of onion burger is my preference?
Yep…it’s still worth it.
Regardless, I smiled as I took another deep bite, glad that I took on my culinary fears of middle childhood and hungrily will for as long as I can. Or until, you know, I’m mercilessly killed by them.
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Follow Louis on Twitter at @LouisFowler and Instagram at @louisfowler78.