Starting with the rocky closing of the beloved but troubled Ingrid’s Bakery—still one of the best eateries I have ever been to, honestly—I have had a not-so-good culinary relationship with most of the restaurants on NW 36th, from around May to Western.
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I was just about to write off that section of town, when TLO big-wig Patrick told me he wanted me to give the new-ish Korean restaurant Han Jan a college try. I was more than a little dubious.

