Editor's Note: As Louis Fowler recovers and rehabilitates from the stroke he suffered earlier this month, we're going to republish – per his request – some of his classic TLO Restaurant Reviews and other articles from over the years.
Today, we're going with his glowing write-up of Florence's Restaurant from September of 2017. It's one of my favorite pieces he's written, and with the east-side recently announced as a recipient of the prestigious James Beard "America's Classics Award," relevant, too.