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Food

TLO Restaurant Review: Snack Attack

4:07 AM EDT on July 28, 2020

Growing up in a one-horse Texas town, when I was a niño pequeño, my blessed grandparents would usually send me care packages filled with all kinds of Mexican goodies that we could never find on our local candy racks. Since then, these south of the border treats have been a part of my life, from the naturally nectarous fruit waters to the terrifically toothsome goat-milk confections.

Sitting back in my sturdy chair at Snack Attack, 601 N. Mustang Rd. in Yukon, I felt those tummy rumblings of a tasty remembrance once again as my wide eyes wistfully poured over the handmade ice creams and homemade fruit snacks, piles of cheese-powered eats and towering tropical treats that had my soul crying out for the far younger days of my mostly wasted life.

A recent addition to the burgeoning Latinx scene in Yukon—we’re taking over, ese!—Snack Attack adds, as they’re fond of saying, a “Mexican flair” to the archetypical concession foods most of us are generally used to, like hot dogs and nachos. Take, for example, the grand sampling of the Elote Palo ($3.00), served completely on the cob.

A girthy ear of corn on a strong stick, the tight kernels loudly pop with every new teeth-mark. Accentuated with a loverly slathering of mayonesa de lima, Cotija cheese, chile powder, crema Mexicana and, hello sweet-heat my old friend, a liberal dowse of Chamoy zigzagged across the top, it’s a deliciously showy reinvention.

Beard covered in corn and mayo, next I partook in the legendary Mexican Hot Dog ($3.50), a rebooted frank that has come over to this once-great land to take the jobs that American wieners won’t do…and do it better. The beef dog is placed in a fresh bun and topped with avocado, tomatoes, bacon, jalapenos and God knows what else, creating the hardest hitting snack I’m sure Yukon has ever seen.

But, you know, if hot dogs aren’t exactly your thing, how about the downright diabolical Dorinachos ($7.00)? Using nacho-flavored corn chips as the flaming bedrock of this treat, it is then topped with nacho cheese, Cojita cheese, well-shucked corn, crema Mexicana and buried jalapenos galore, creating a nouveau nacho that will forever change your interpretation of the usually microwaved cheese-and-chip classic.

A work of art that is as gorgeous to gawk at as it is to gently tear apart, the Pina Loca ($9.00) is the most fantástico foodstuff I’ve ever had set in front of me, featuring a halved pineapple filled with strawberries, grapes, cantaloupe, jicama, mango and, as you’d expect, pineapple slices. A tastefully arranged centerpiece, with a thorough sprinkling of chile powder and just enough Chamoy to wince, it’s a museum quality meal

Filled with all the Mexican goodness that I’ve so desperately craved, I was still drawn to the homemade helados. I managed to taste a small cup of the tempestuous Tres Leches ice cream ($3.00) and about half of a hand-dipped ChocoBanana ($3.50), both of which truly displayed Snack Attack’s declaración de objetivos of giving these locally-made treats that always-needed Mexican flair. Cómpralo ya!

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Follow Louis on Twitter at @LouisFowler and Instagram at @louisfowler78.

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